Beyond Silver and Gold: The World of Ensamble Capon Mezcal
The world of mezcal is far wider than the simple categories you might see on a shelf. It’s a spirit with deep roots in terroir, tradition, and agricultural practices that change from village to village. One of the most interesting examples of this complexity is the ensamble capon mezcal, a style that tells a story about the land and the hands that craft it.
But what does that term even mean? It’s not just jargon. It’s a description of how the mezcal was made, from the specific plants chosen to the way they were harvested. This guide will walk you through what defines this style, using a specific bottle as our example: the NETA Bicuixe + Espadin Capon.
Deconstructing an Ensamble Capon Mezcal
The name itself breaks down into two key concepts. 'Ensamble' refers to the blend of agaves used, while 'capon' describes a specific agricultural technique applied before harvesting. Together, they create a spirit with a profile you can’t get any other way.
Ensamble: A Blend of Terroir
An 'ensamble' is a mezcal made from two or more different types of agave. Think of it like a blended wine, where a winemaker combines different grape varietals to create a more complex final product. Mezcaleros do the same, mixing wild and cultivated agaves to achieve a specific balance of flavors.
This particular batch from NETA combines wild Bicuixe (Agave karwinskii) with cultivated Espadín (Agave angustifolia). Bicuixe is known for bringing bright, green, and mineral notes, while Espadín provides a solid foundation of sweet, roasted agave flavor. The agaves were harvested from both white and red soils, adding another layer of regional character.
Capon: Concentrating the Flavor
The 'capon' technique is where the magic really happens. When an agave plant reaches maturity, it prepares to flower by sending up a tall stalk called a *quiote*. If the mezcalero cuts off this stalk before it blooms, the plant redirects all its energy and sugars back into its heart, or *piña*.
This process, known as 'caponado,' makes the piña richer and more flavorful. This patience results in a mezcal with a deeper, more concentrated sweetness and complexity.
NETA: The Real Deal from Oaxaca
The spirit itself comes from NETA, a project dedicated to working with small, family producers in the Miahuatlán region of Oaxaca. The name NETA translates to "the real deal" or "the truth," which reflects their mission to present these unadulterated spirits to the world. They collaborate with families who have been making mezcal for generations.
This batch was distilled by Juan Vasquez Jimenez, one of NETA's youngest producers. It was made from a single 200-liter run, using about 900kg of Bicuixe and a nearly equal amount of Espadín. This small-batch approach ensures that every bottle captures a specific time and place. These artisanal spirits are brought into the U.S. by the importer PM Spirits.
What to Expect in the Glass
The combination of blended agaves and the capon method results in a layered and expressive spirit. It showcases both the bright, wild notes of Bicuixe and the sweet, earthy character of Espadín.
- Nose: Scents of sweet oranges, fennel, and lime oil give way to a background of warm straw.
- Palate: The taste opens with sweet roasted agave and notes of a green summer orchard. Flavors of melon, tarragon, and candied cherries appear, all carried by a pleasant peppery heat.
- Finish: It concludes with a bright sweetness that fades into a clean, dry minerality.
How to Enjoy NETA Bicuixe + Espadin Capon
To fully appreciate the complexity of a spirit like this, it's best to try it neat first. Pour a small amount into a traditional clay copita or a small glass. Let it sit for a minute before sipping. You can also enjoy it over a single large ice cube, which will slowly dilute the mezcal and open up its aromatics.
Its balanced profile of sweet, herbal, and mineral notes also makes it a strong candidate for cocktails that let the spirit shine.
Mezcal Negroni
Replacing gin with mezcal adds a different dimension to this classic cocktail.
- 1 oz NETA Bicuixe + Espadin Capon
- 1 oz Campari
- 1 oz Sweet Vermouth
Add all ingredients to a mixing glass filled with ice.
Stir until well-chilled.
Strain into a rocks glass over a large ice cube.
Garnish with an orange peel.
Oaxacan Old Fashioned
A simple, spirit-forward cocktail that highlights the roasted agave notes of the mezcal.
- 2 oz NETA Bicuixe + Espadin Capon
- 1/4 oz Agave Nectar
- 2 dashes Angostura bitters
Combine the agave nectar and bitters in a mixing glass.
Add the mezcal and fill the glass with ice.
Stir until well-chilled.
Strain into a rocks glass over a large ice cube.
Garnish with a grapefruit or orange peel.
Also from Neta
If you're interested in exploring more from NETA, here are a few others available in North Carolina:
- NETA Arroqueno + Sierra Negra
- NETA Espadin Capon
- NETA Madrecuixe Capon
- NETA Tepextate
- NETA Tequilana Capon
Work with Dorado Rock in North Carolina
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